Rick Owen’s Spring 2025 Menswear Collection Review
Rick Owens unveiled the spectacle of the Spring 2025 Menswear collection to Paris Fashion Week, leaving the audience both captivated and contemplative. This was a show of grandeur, showcasing an army of about 200 models from all walks of life, all adorned in Rick Owens’ fashion. Known for his avant-garde aesthetic and architectural precision, Owens delivered a show that transcended traditional fashion boundaries, presenting a dystopian dreamscape that seamlessly bridged primitive motifs with futuristic elements.
Owens describes his showcase as an ”Army of Love” where people from different walks of life came together to paint a realistic picture of humanity. Titled “Hollywood”, Owens’ inspiration for this collection draws from his journey; transitioning from a sheltered upbringing in Porterdale, CA, to a life of exploration and self-discovery in Hollywood.
As Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7 swelled lines, one by one, and row by row, Rick Owens’ army emerged, in a visual feast of dramatic silhouettes. The format was a unique blend of mass tribute and a military drill, with models walking in phalanxes and strongmen carrying contorting gymnasts.
Owens stated his desire to challenge the conventional norms of beauty and create space for exploration and acceptance. This theme is reflected in the show’s format, which incorporates a diverse cast of models of different body types and gender identities. The sight of such a diverse group marching together in defiance of conformity was a powerful statement in today’s world, characterized by rising intolerance. The show was a call for “blurring the lines”–not just in fashion, but also in how we treat each other.
The collection featured oversized jackets, wide-legged pants, and voluminous capes. Owens’ mastery of proportion was evident, as these exaggerated pieces contrasted strikingly with more fitted garments. This play on shape and size created a dynamic visual narrative, capturing the essence of a world teetering on the edge of dystopia.
The show was a dramatic deviation from last season’s intimate showcase. Owens explains how last season’s show felt so restrictive, excluding many. He stated, “So I thought this season, we’ll invite everybody. And all the fashion students who are usually outside the fence, we’re going to have them in the show.” This season Model castings
were flooded with those who had responded to the designer’s fashion school-issued open call for anyone who wanted to join his “white satin army.”
The show is a great exercise for displaying different body types.
“I’m thinking we have 10 looks that have to accommodate every single body,” Owens said,” So how do we do that? How do we make it convincingly look like Rick Owens looks? And I think we came up with an answer to that.”
The mass-processional format allowed you to appreciate how each look molded to each model personally, while also letting you dwell on the clothes. Textural diversity was a hallmark of the collection and included Owens’s signature elements–biker jackets, denim with unique finishes, and layered silhouettes that both protected and challenged.
The inclusion of deflated versions of last season’s balloon boots and chiffon cowls added a touch of mysticism, further emphasizing the show’s connection to Owens’s Hollywood roots.
The Rick Owens Spring 2025 Menswear collection exemplifies how the designer continues to innovate throughout the fashion culture. By embracing the fluidity of humanity and pushing the boundaries of conventional design, Owens has once again proven his ability to shape the future of fashion. His innovative approach not only challenges traditional norms but also inspires a new generation of designers to explore the limitless possibilities of fashion as a form of art and expression.