Hauntology: Rave-Review’s Kaleidoscope of Nostalgia

Rave-Review is a Stockholm-based clothing label that is renowned for its commitment to sustainability, vibrant use of colors, and impeccable tailoring. Their Fall/Winter show in Milan was a spectacular display that exceeded expectations in all of these areas. The show also managed to evoke a sense of nostalgia for the past, which could only be described as Hauntology.

Hauntology isn't only the name of this collection but also a philosophical concept, suggesting that the present day is constantly "haunted" by the ghosts of lost futures. This topic is explored further in Mark Fisher's book "Ghosts of My Life: Writings on Depression, Hauntology, and Lost Futures." Pinkpanthress and Dua Lipa's music is the perfect example of this concept, as both artists use sounds and draw inspiration from music that was popular before they were even born, creating a new age nostalgia of sorts. Another good example of this feeling can be found in the Frutiger Aero 2000s art style. Understanding even the basic principles of Hauntology helps to put into words the feeling that this show has given me.

The show played with fabrics, seamlessly transitioning between tartans, leopard prints, argyle knits, sheer cellophane-esc textiles, lace, tweed, and furs. The muted color palette of the collection was punctuated by occasional bursts of piercing reds and greens that added a touch of vibrancy to the darker ambiance.

Midway through the show, I began to experience a feeling of being late for class or school. After some initial confusion, I realized that it was due to the clever usage of silhouettes and models. While some people believe that models are not essential to a show, this collection utilized a diverse group of models to great effect, evoking a sense of youth, nostalgia, and the past. The models of any age helped to beautifully sell the concept.

The silhouettes were equally intriguing, as many looks resembled workwear or business attire, while others looked like something my friends would wear. This created an image of looks resembling professors, students, and faculty. Some looks used ties as belts, while others gave models messenger bags and sprinkled denim here and there. It's a unique blend of clothing that appears to be influenced by grandparents' style while channeling the edge of Skins or Euphoria. At first glance, it might seem esoteric and unlikely to be understood by most, but once you start peeling back the layers that inspired the show, it becomes relatable in a way that few designers can achieve.

Look 22

The jacket features gray and mesh fabric on the sides of the torso and inner arms, creating an hourglass-like figure. It's a blend of a zip-up and blazer, with misplaced accessories like a belt tie, giving it a vintage or nostalgic vibe. The top has shifted tartan and a patch of argyle on the leather skirt, along with leg warmers over flip flops, which are all avant-garde references to the past. Patches are missing on the shoulder, and you can't quite remember what your grandma's old top looked like, only recalling the first few distinguishing features.

Look 14

A great example of how model selection can contribute to the overall theme of a collection. As mentioned earlier, this collection explores the themes of youth and time, incorporating past trends and memories, evoking nostalgic feelings of hand-me-downs. The tartan strips and sheer material used in the top are a perfect example. The top is paired with an argyle tie, a leather patchwork bag, and zebra print sandals. The outfit, complete with the mix of patterns on the pants, looks trendy. The loose blouse, messenger bag, and funky pants, are an outfit that you might see on Pinterest or on the front page of the Unif website, but it also has those "forgotten" elements.

Going into more detail about the looks, as previously mentioned, some of the accessories such as earrings, arm warmers, or balaclavas, contribute to the collection's edgy and rebellious vibe. Every element of the collection has been crafted with meticulous attention to detail, from the makeup by Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schüchk to the tailoring of the dresses. The dresses in the collection have an exceptional attention to detail, making them look as if they are draped effortlessly on the models. Some of them even have ruching along the ends, giving them a unique and cozy appearance.

It seems like the founders are introducing a new era with this bittersweet take on nostalgia. Though the brand has previously dabbled in muted colors, darker aesthetics, and high-concept ideas, this is a significant shift. As a person in my early 20s, I found the collection to be a perfect encapsulation of styles that have gone in and out of fashion as I've grown. This speaks to the effort put into creating these looks. Hauntology, as a concept, is beautifully interpreted and demonstrates how much can be communicated through fabrics.