Sabato De Sarno, who became the creative director of Gucci just over a year ago, has made a bold attempt to take the brand in a new stylistic direction. He achieved his artistic vision by presenting a clean and polished look at Gucci's Fall/Winter 2024 runway show during Milan Fashion Week. Prior to joining Gucci, De Sarno was the fashion director of Valentino, where he oversaw both men's and women's ready-to-wear for 14 years. He began his fashion career as an Assistant Pattern-Maker at Prada in 2005 and later became the Head Designer of Women's Knitwear at Dolce & Gabbana in 2008.

In a recent interview with Vogue, Sabato stated, "I was a designer for 20 years. I have touched the clothes, I changed and modified them, I invented them. They have chosen someone who knows how to do this job - if you like it or not, that's another story - but I surely know how to do this." Sabato De Sarno's second season for Gucci showcases his importance as a designer, much like how a musician's second album can make or break their career.

The collection's overall concept was carefully crafted outerwear with a subtle subversive touch, featuring bold color combinations, various silhouettes, and textures. There are some similarities between this fall collection and the previous spring collection, such as well-tailored coats and slip dresses, with some featuring lace. The color palette, including burgundy, khaki, and chartreuse, is slightly repeated, with many more subdued tones included as well. Regarding the colors, Sabato says that he includes "the colors - the ugly ones, the ones of the heart, and the wrong ones, together."

The fashion show began with a collection of 55 outfits, featuring short jumpsuits and suit jackets fastened with thin GG-branded belts, along with thigh-high leather boots. Oversized soft-wool coats with a plunging neckline and long body-con dresses were also showcased, all of which would appeal to fans of Gucci's '90s and early 2000s collections.

This season, outerwear was a prominent feature, with several varied coats, some with hidden buttoning on the back, and jackets flooding the runway. They ranged from long wool trenches with sequined fringe to box-shaped peacoats and leather-patterned jackets, all paired with micro-tailored shorts.

This collection showcases De Sarno's love for delicate feminine apparel, featuring many lingerie details. The wardrobe includes velvet slip dresses in lovely warm fall colors with lace on the neckline. The catwalk also featured a long-sleeved, see-through lace pattern, a sheer halter-strap top, and a long, thick skirt with traditional flap pockets at the waist.

The intention behind the tailoring and design elements is to blend informal and formal styles, creating a look that is both comfortable and expressive of one's day-to-day personal style. "My dreams, like my fashion, always converse with reality. I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather ways to live in this world," said Sabato in the show notes. Although this wardrobe is intended for colder months, the idea is to be both cozy and stylish. The three-piece ensemble features a few knitted elements, including a sparkled collar and a short low-cut dress paired with a matching oversized cardigan elevated with glittering fringe at the bottom. A pinch of fur was also spotted with an all-black notched-collared coat.

Each look of the apparel collection was complemented with archival ornamental chokers. A long ribbon styled underneath the necklace dangled over the back and paired with the garment's color, adding an unexpected aspect to the design. Some models were seen wearing black cat-eye sunglasses, while Sabato de Sarno's envisioned direction was evident in the bag designs, which combined legacy and modernity.

This season, Gucci remained true to its roots by introducing a new bucket bag with a broad silhouette, including a twin bamboo strap that pays respect to one of the fashion house's signature features, Gucci Bamboo. Additionally, there's a half-moon bag and a new GG Milano top handle bag with a fluffy detail, both with a new flat variation of the double G logo.

Complementing the attire were chunky platform loafers, shiny leather horse riding boots, and pointed stiletto heels with glittering tassels. Gucci had a clear preference for leather while developing this fall apparel.