Cheney Chan’s Fall 2024 Haute Couture Collection Review

Cheney Chan, a young, upcoming independent Chinese designer, unveiled the beautiful Dream in Bloom FW24/25 collection under the Cheney Chan Private label for the first time in the heart of Paris for haute couture week.

This collection, inspired by the 12 characteristics of purity, courage, charm, resilience, endurance, passion, freedom, heroism, independence, clarity, responsibility, and authenticity, is pulled from the many classical Chinese stories Cheney has read. Giving each piece created a personality of its own. Flowers and butterflies he adores are used as the mediums for this collection, reflecting the desire to tribute and celebrate transformation from cocoon to butterfly or bud to bloom, interpreting the demeanor of modern women and the many, many changes they go through throughout their diverse lives. The number 12 also holds significance as the number that symbolizes everything in the world, representing the cycle of time and life adding to this collection.

Set in the classically styled Salle Gaveau concert hall as stage lights shined down on the runway, the audience looked up admiring the models as they graced the stage; a fan at the end of the runway blowing on the models to make the pieces have a similarity of fluttering in the wind such as flowers and butterflies behave adding to the theatrical elements. 

Looks 5, 6, 7, 10, 14, and 18 caught my eye the most.

Look 5

This piece was inspired by peonies.

A white silk feathered cape with a hint of yellow in the middle, a layered silk strapless gown with sheer white stockings, gloves, and white platform heels. This radiant cape was created by hand-cutting small silk strips and then tearing apart the yarns to produce the silk fur feathery visual effect. The tips were adorned with real feathers, and the silhouette was designed to resemble butterfly wings, creating a captivating blend of the two mediums.

Look 6

This piece was inspired by the iris flower.

A form-fitting, waist-cinching yellow gradient skirt, butterfly bra top with a pronounced tail bedazzled with Swarovski crystals, and matching butterfly headpiece. As the model leaned over to accentuate the tail, I was reminded of a peacock displaying its feathers. This piece was fabulous.

Look 7

This piece was inspired by the calla lily.

A white sleeveless gown trimmed in green, wrapped in the shape of a calla lily, with the trim and tips of the dress decorated in Swarovski crystals. This piece was originally seen on fashion model Coco Rocha, who also closed this show, at the Cannes Film Festival. I couldn't write about this collection without including it as one of my favorite pieces. If I were to make one critique, however, I wish they had styled this model differently in hair and makeup.

Look 10

This piece was inspired by one of the 12 characteristics, resilience.

A rippling sage green strapless gown with a wrap-around shawl crystalized around the edges using Swarovski crystals is accompanied by matching sheer green gloves and stockings with heels. The added visual effect of the graceful touch of the oiled paper umbrella accessory with the pink flower petals falling around her as she opened it made this enchanting.

Look 14

This piece was inspired by a butterfly breaking free.

A soft pink layered waist-cinching skirt, flower detailing at the hips paired with a matching butterfly bra top and sheer pink gloves, the voluminous set of tulle wings and train in the back. I loved how grandiose and very whimsical this piece was.

Look 18

This piece was inspired by one of the 12 characteristics, Passion.

A red silk mermaid gown with an open scallop-shaped bodice, Swarovski crystals accentuating the waist, and matching red gloves complete the look. The scallop shaping on this with the vibrant red reminds me of a pearl revealing itself from a clam; I thought this look was alluring to the eye.

What I admire the most about this collection is the intricacy and diligence shown in the craftsmanship of these pieces. Tens of thousands of hours were spent by Chan and his team to get it perfect.

All the silk fabrics were re-made by hand. Different shades of white, pink, yellow, green, and blue were dyed, cut into long strips, and sewed layer by layer of varying thicknesses like ripples when making pottery.  The garments in this collection are refined to a jade-like texture through meticulous processes. These processes, which reflect Chan's dedication to the artistry of porcelain, involve shaping each piece with circular lines reminiscent of ceramic techniques. This attention to detail highlights Chan's vision of turning fashion into wearable sculptures.

Cheney Chan is committed to building the first Oriental Fashion House in China, looking for different fashion elements from ancient art, architecture, history, literature, and aesthetics inherited for thousands of years, and building a unique brand identity through exquisite traditional handcraft and contemporary design concepts. We see the muses; flowers and butterflies go hand in hand quite elegantly, leaving a lasting impression on every guest.

As mentioned before, 12 also holds extraordinary significance, marking his personal growth and the development of his brand's 12th-anniversary chapter. With his goal of creating pieces to last an eternity, I look forward to what Cheney Chan has in store.