Featured in vogue, beloved by Solange and other musicians, and having a unique voice, Led by Mowalola Ogunlesi, the namesake brand has built a considerable fanbase by pushing boundaries and focusing on individuality. The Nigerian-born designer has worked with Bratz, Beats by Dre, and Yeezy Gap, achieving this all at the age of just 28 years old.

She had her first collection in May 2017, Psychedelic, inspired by Nigerian rock music from the 70s and 80s. This Trippy Afrofuturist take on male sexuality put the designer on the map at the start of her career. "My designs appeal to an unapologetic person…" She tells W Magazine. The collection was inspired by Lagos "petrol heads" or car enthusiasts, giving it this NASCAR-type look. Still, she also intentionally left her model's skin exposed so that the eye would be drawn to parts of the body that are typically covered. It's not shocking that Ogunlesi could have a natural gift for things like this because she was born to two fashion-designing parents. Her father worked in menswear, whereas Her mother worked in childrenswear, womenswear, and launched a fashion label using locally produced textiles from Nigeria in the 60s. Ogunlesi feels this background has nothing to do with her being drawn to fashion Though, saying she initially chose textiles during her time at Central Saint Martins.

Her subversive outlook on the world is a constant seen in all her work. This outlook has given some people the wrong impression on some people, however, with her most recent collection, Crash. This off-schedule London SS24 collection explored themes of political tension and body image, The latter upsetting some on Twitter (x). The show was inspired by Crash (1996), a movie that "fetishizes car crashes." models wore Football polos with hentai on the front of them, the signature low-rise Mowalola pants, distressed miniskirts with flags of different countries on them, and some had makeup to look like scars and bruises. The piece upsetting people was a conjoined polo shirt that read "4 slim people" across the front, worn by two thin models. People saw this as insensitive and tone-deaf, critiquing Mowalolas's taste level. Ogunlesi questioned why she was being lectured on this when the original designer of the look, Karl Lagerfeld, Creative Director for Channel, never got any questions. Saying the rage was understood but had never seen any plus-sized models on the Chanel runway. This commentary on the body types seen on runways and who can get a pass to say what they want is an excellent example of what Mowalola achieves best—creating conversations.

Ogunlesi has been challenging what's allowed and expected in the fashion world since Psychedelic; her direct opposition to the norms and celebration of her culture are what draw in black alternative supporters. It's no wonder why she's worked with people like JT from the City Girls in the Beats by Dre collab. JT is an artist who has been dipping into the fashion scene for some time now but received pushback from fans due to her not looking like the "average model". Tradition and industry standards are not something Mowalola stands for, nor does JT; she feels there should be more girls who look like her in fashion campaigns. So naturally, them working together was just like fate. The campaign received the normal amount of backlash from the rapper's fanbase, which can just be accredited to colorism because, besides the partial nudity, the campaign itself was stunning to look at and had nothing that could be considered offensive. The fashion industry is often a white-dominated space, so having people like JT and Mowalowa stand confidently in their desire for change is exactly what we need to see more of if we want to see a genuine shift.

This "I create what I want, how I want when I want" Mentality is what's gotten Mowalola the acclaim it has today, and the stories behind its creators' motivations should inspire many other creatives to strive for the same level of care and thought with their own projects. This is a brand that has and will continue to laugh in the face of social norms and that on its own is commendable.

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